West Lane Translator

RECEPTION, TUNER, SETUP & PROBLEMS

Background:

West Lane Translator (WLT) owns the licenses through which the various broadcasters retransmit their programming to the Central Coast (Florence area) of Oregon. With the transition to digital, WLT, not the broadcasters, will also own the equipment, but it will be maintained by the respective stations. These devices are called "translators." Licenses are required and necessary, as mandated by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC), to operate a translator. It is often necessary to have a good antenna system and a television set with a good tuner in it to receive the FREE, over-the-air services WLT offers.

If your current television set does not have a digital tuner in it, you will not be able to receive digital television. Converter boxes that will convert the digital signals to analog so your older analog set can receive them are available for purchase. The government converter box "coupon program" has expired.

Digital television brings with it many enhancements over analog. If you can receive the signal, you will get near studio quality pictures and sound - no more snowy pictures or ghosting. In addition to this, you will be able to view high definition (HDTV) programs and, in some cases, additional channels when offered by the television station. IE: KMTR currently carries their program on 16-1 and carry the new CW network on 16-2, so you will actually be getting an additional channel. Note: All Eugene television stations are currently transmitting both analog and digital signals.

Keep one thing in mind: when you receive FREE over-the-air television from WLT, you're getting the whole signal. This is not necessarily true of either satellite or cable. Our translators transmit the entire signal as received from the television stations in Eugene. Because of bandwidth limitations, the signals delivered by satellite and/or cable are compressed and will not look as sharp as our signal.

Irrespective of the kind of signal being transmitted (analog or digital), a good antenna system is a must for reception. You will NOT have to change out your antenna when the switch to digital occurs if you are currently getting a reasonably good picture now on your analog set. There are, however, a few guidelines that you should follow irrespective of the kind of signal you are or plan to receive.

For either an upgrade or a new installation, you should probably plan on installing both an outside antenna and a (on the antenna) pre-amplifier. A good outside antenna kit includes a pair of wall mount brackets, a short mast, a standard corner reflector UHF antenna, coax cable to reach your set, a little amplifier that mounts just under the antenna and also it's remote power source (that's usually located just behind your main TV set and runs power right up the coax).

Be sure to re-scan your television tuner and/or converter box whenever you move locations or make the transition to digital so that it will automatically pick up our new signals - when we get them on the air.

Installing an antenna system

If you can see the lights on our tower Glanada peak just south of town, reception should be a cinch. If you get any kind of a usable signal using what comes with your set (probably a UHF loop antenna) or just a piece of wire, an outside antenna is likely to work even better. If possible, find a clear area unhampered by trees, shrubs or other objects. Be sure not to install your antenna near any power lines or other possible safety hazards. Aim your outside antenna with someone giving you "better" - "worse" guidance from inside the house. Some television sets have a signal strength meter built into them - go for the best reading on it.

UHF Antennas

Bow-tie

Loop antenna

UHF antenna

If there's no signal at all

* Maybe you haven't set up your TV's tuner properly. If it has mechanical or screen display switches, be sure that the one offering a choice between "CATV/Cable" and "Antenna" (or "broadcast", or "off-the-air") is set the right way for antenna reception.

* If you once had a signal from an outside antenna, try replacing the balun (that little matching transformer between the coax and the antenna terminals) with a good outside rated unit --or better yet: an amplifier unit.

* You might also check the antenna cables as critters do like to chew on them.

Balun

* Try someone else's portable TV on your antenna connection to eliminate your set as the problem.

* If your antenna LOOKS old, it is old. Replace it, the balun, and the down lead (with 59/u, CAC-6 coax or equivalent).

Coaxial cable with F connector

Don't use this type.

* You can buy the cable and connectors and read the directions. If you buy the connectors separately, you can drill smaller holes through your walls for an easier, neater installation. Standard cable lengths WITH connectors is the most reliable way to go, however. Use either a round-top stapler (NOT a flat top staple) or small plastic round cable staples let you dress down the cable neatly under the eaves and along natural building lines. Under NO circumstances crush the cable.

* Once properly connected and set (usually via the screen display) for off-air signals (not "cable"), modern digital/electronic tuners usually provide single button/menu item to do your channel programming for you. It's accessed either by your remote control unit, extra switches or buttons on the set (perhaps behind a little door under the picture), or both. (Be sure your antenna is connected and correctly aimed first.) Important: don't let the automatic programming feature lock you in to limited reception. Reinitiate it (see your TV set manual) and run the channel search again after making any improvements.

* If you're only pushing the signal to one set, a simple +10dB (or so) amplifier will do the job for you. Be sure to get one with a fair UHF "noise figure" ("6" or less for UHF should do it). To push through splitters (high UHF rated, not cable company type), buy the higher gain (+20dB or so) type amplifier that couples directly to your antenna with a short "twin lead".

NOTE: Any splitters between the amplifier and the power supply must be of the "power pass" type when you're running a preamplifier on the antenna.

2 way splitter

Other splitters

* Be sure to shower up after crawling under an older house as the earth under it might be saturated with chlordane, some other insecticide or fiberglass insulation.

VCR CONSIDERATIONS

* If you VCR is older, it may have only an analog tuner in it. If this is the case, you'll need a converter box for it to work after WLT makes the transition to digital.

* You might find that the UHF antenna-to-TV feed-through (that is to say: the antenna coax goes to your VCR first, but feeds through to your TV when it's turned off) --this often gives poor results. If so, just set your TV and VCR for channel #3 and use the VCR's tuner. (A new VCR might have a more sensitive UHF tuner than an old TV set.) Another option (and one that's least confusing) is to use a good splitter and feed signal equally to both.

* On the VCR control panel and/or on your remote control is a switch labeled "VCR/TV (or some such). When you push the button, an appearance --either on the panel display or as an on-screen display-- toggles between the 2 options. Use the position that works. .

* In the "VCR" mode, your TV must be set to the channel #3 or #4 output of your VCR --which then acts as the station tuner. In "play", you watch the tape, but in "record" or when the VCR is stopped (but turned on), you'll be watching the VCR's selected channel. In the pass-through "TV" mode, you can watch one channel while recording another (unlike most cable and satellite reception service set ups). In "super long play" ("EP", or whatever vernacular your VCR uses), up to 8 hours of shows can be recorded. When well used, VCR programming can make the 6 translator channels here much more effective than 18 cable channels watched in real time --AND: you can fast forward through the commercials!

If your old VCR or TV set uses separate UHF and VHF inputs, get a new one --it's time.

Power loss: Today's VCRs have good programming and intuitive on-screen displays, but your programming is lost with each power interruption. Simply get an affordable computer type "UPS" (uninterruptible power supply) which immediately kicks in when the power goes off. You can plug your nightstand clock, computer, and a SMALL lamp into it as well --and laugh at the next blackout (at least: for for 5 to 30 minutes). It will give you time to turn things off before they loose their memory. It's amazing that for 20 years, and despite the flashing VCR clock having become stock-in-trade for standup comedians, manufacturers have generally not offered VCRs with adequate backup power for the clock and programming memory!